São Miguel, Azores 🇵🇹
Quick holiday facts
Duration: 7 nights
Flights: London Heathrow to Ponta Delgada, direct with British Airways (£798) - booked via booking.com
Accommodation: Solar de. Santo Andre B&B in central Ponta Delgada (£1000) - booked via booking.com
Car Hire: Sixt booked via Expedia.com (£253)
Spending money covering food, drinks & excursions: £100 per day (£700)
APPROX TOTAL SPEND = £2,751
Our week-long adventure in The Azores largest and most populated island; Sao Miguel
Why The Azores?
After much research and reading up about The Azores, and seeing sooooo much content online, we decided it would be our 2024 anniversary trip - we’ve made it a thing to go away on or around our wedding anniversary in May annually and boy! This trip did not disappoint, it really is the Hawaii of Europe. Lonely Planet’s guide tipped our decision into ‘yes, it has to be there’ and so the planning began in earnest… Sao Miguel is a lush, green natural paradise where it unfolds its beauty through its remote location, historic architecture, the wonders of nature, agriculture and culinary delights.
Go here if…
You like nature
You don’t mind not having guaranteed sun
You want to explore and create your own plans
You want to be in the minority as a tourist (not many Brits!)
You want to see something different to the ‘norm’
You want to be genuinely taken in by the charm of the island and its people
Two top tips: we opted to stay in Sao Miguel, the largest and most inhabited of the 9 island archipelago of the wider Azores. It is also one of the most southernly islands and bingo; we found the only direct flight from the UK (from Heathrow) with BA. Win! We would highly recommend this option if you don’t want to incorporate a multi-stay into your trip via Lisbon or Porto. From watching many other travel blogs, we decided to make a list of things to do whilst on the island, which we also highly recommend doing - crucially - this WAS NOT an itinerary day by day. That would not have worked because omg! The Weather.
The weather deserves it’s own section on this blog. As the pictures on this blog indicates, you have to be prepared for ALL weathers in the Azores. Rain, sun, humidity, fog, wind, lots of clouds. It doesn’t get cold (but you might be if you get wet!) and it is very, very unpredictable. No weather app that we used was ever accurate - the best way to plan each day was to wake up and look out of the window!
Pack accordingly and take:
a waterproof jacket
hiking shoes & trainers
flip flops
water shoes for the beach/sea
jackets for the evenings
changes of swimwear (not white - more on that later) & enough towels
clothing to layer if needed
hats & sunglasses…
The weather also varies on various spots on the island. The best way to plan for this is to use the fantastically helpful SpotAzores website. This website shows you in real-time via webcams, what the weather is doing in each place, and each main tourist destination is on there. Worth checking daily/hourly if you need!
The Faial do Terra Valley
This is the trail head of the Salto do Prego waterfall hike (5km).
Here’s a glimpse into our Azores adventure, along with more top tips to make your trip unforgettable.
Day 1:
We arrived mid-afternoon and picked up our hire car from the airport. Literally a 5 minute drive away, we arrived at our accommodation in the heart of Ponta Delgada. We arrived at the B&B, Solar de. Santo Andre (which is a traditional Portuguese Manor House - this one is still owned by the 6th generation of the same family) and it was lovely! In fact, more than lovely, it was like walking into a museum. A quaint, yet charming mixture of artefacts; a library, modern and traditional art on the walls and antique furniture. Our room was fantastic, clean, well-appointed, airy thanks to the high ceiling yet comfortable. Everything we needed for a great stay. Before we delve into what we got up to each day, a special mention to Eduarda and her team (including Marina and Marie) who were extremely welcoming hosts, and served up the most fabulous, local produce breakfasts in the communal kitchen/dining room every day. We loved it!
After a quick freshen up we headed out to start exploring around town. We took a stroll from the B&B around the main square and church Sao Sebastiao, stopping for a little drink and wandering around the black and white paved, yet narrow streets. Note: if you aren’t very good at parallel parking you may want to practice before you go to the Azores! All of the streets are vary narrow, cobbled and mostly one-way!
Before long we were starving! So, sought out some excellent tapas at Taberna na Boa Vista. YUM!
Day 2:
We seized the opportunity given the sun as out to have a day at and around Sete Cidades - the islands famous blue and green lakes. Wow! We were very lucky with the weather on this day as it was glorious all day. We started the day by going to the Miradouro de Boco do Inferno: a stunning vista high on a mountain top overlooking the two lakes. It is a short hike from the car park area and warning! No loos - be prepared to wild wee on this trip! Most attractions have public toilets as do villages/beaches/towns but just not at these natural areas, lakes or mountains. Take supplies…… You’re welcome!
Once at the miradouro we did the hike and my god! What a reward! Stunning views of the two lakes. What a treat. Go early if you want to avoid the crowds.
After that, we drove down to lake level, across the little bridge that divides the two lakes and around to the visitor centre. Following a coffee and a pastel de nada (obviously!) we headed out on a hike around part of the blue lake perimeter to a grassy beach area and back again. Again, simply beautiful views the whole way. Really, really worth seeing with your own eyes as the pictures and videos just don’t do it justice.
We then moved on to, driving to Vista Do Rei, the viewpoint overlooking both lakes again and behind us, an abandoned 90s 5* hotel that technically is derelict, unsafe and not for trespassing! That didn't stop us (and everyone else!). In we went to a cheesy, cool, murky and wet concrete building with remnants of state rooms and suites still holding up. We went onto the roof for the best view of the whole holiday……
Sete Cidades
The view from the rooftop of an abandoned hotel at Vista do Rei.
At the end of day 2 we headed to nearby beach town Mosteiros. Wow. Stunning black beach with rocky outlet that feels sheltered thanks to the cliffs on the left side. There are a couple of nice beach shacks there (good beer!). We spent a gorgeous couple of hours chilling here, before heading to beach bar Seaside Vibes further into the town and on the top of the cliff for burgers and sunset-gazing.
Day 3:
Whale watching of course! Today was our anniversary and we always try to celebrate it doing something special (or wild!). We booked a 3-hour whale watching cruise via Futurismo and turned up at the marina at the arrival time of 9:45am. Once checked in we stepped onto the catamaran and once briefed, took our seats on the top deck. Now, this is where we tell you that it was absolutely epic and that it was one of those life-affirming experiences: seeing blue whales. Which we did. And it was mega, but spoilt slightly by the crazy weather, with winds and horizontal rains. We sailed (a rather bumpy ride) for approx 1 hour before the whales got spotted and then we got to see a few blow holes! Amazing! Maybe if you go though, try to go out in nicer weather…
If you watch this video all the way through, keep your eye on the far left to see (just about!) a blow hole!
Back on land (but still in the pouring rain!), we decided to visit the local pineapple plantation. Where we tried some delicious pineapple liqueur! And then on we went to Cha Gorreana, Europe’s only tea plantation, no less. We had a short hike in the tea fields and then a short tour of the tea factory, including a tasting. It would have been rude not to have bought some home and the green tea is especially delicious…
The final activity on our anniversary, naturally, was to have a celebratory meal. On recommendation from our accommodation hosts, we booked the Louvre Michaelense restaurant. Delicious fusion European food, we both had a wonderful evening dining there and some delightful Azorean wine.
Day 4:
It was time for some waterfall action! After breakfast we headed straight to Salto do Cabrito, to do a short hike and see the waterfall. It is actually a working hydroelectric plant, with a dam further upstream that you can hike to if you fancy it and have a head for heights!. We decided to take the steps to the right of the waterfall to be able to walk over the bridge high above it, and along the rocky ridge (which is basically a footwell along the dam pipe!). Some nice views here, however we decided we would continue sightseeing and so left to drive over to Lagoa de Fogo. Yet another stunning lake which we approached from the miradouro. Needing a wee (ha!) we headed off to grab some lunch by driving 10 mins to the nearby town on the north coast, Ribiera Grande.
We had a really nice Portuguese ‘regional’ steak dish and a quick break to take in the town (very nice beach and public pools directly on the seafront) before our time slot at Caldeira Velha Thermal Springs. Back up the mountain we drove and headed into the natural park. Now, this was a lovely spot. Basically ‘caldera velha’ translates to ‘boiling old’ hot springs. And yes, they actually were boiling hot! We spent a serene 90 minutes here, soaking in the different baths (of varying temperatures, including in the cold pool, directly underneath the waterfall). This isn’t a private experience, rather, a shared bathing experience with up to 90-odd other folks so if you don’t mind that, this place is well worth the trip (and the pre-booking).
Back in Ponta Delgado we hunted out the best pizza in town! Absolutely everyone must try Nonna’s Teeth & Tomatoes pizzeria. Very special indeed.
Day 5:
More waterfall action! This time we headed further east to the Faial do Terra valley to do the full Salto do Prego trail. At just under 5km, we felt this was doable. However, those kilometres are entirely up the mountain and then back down…!! Entirely worth it though. Incredible nature doing it’s thing. Lots to see on both legs of the trail, including cats and chickens! You can bathe in the pool at the waterfall (if you’re brave) and also climb up above it to see it from above the cascade. We loved this trail, invigorating and soul-nourishing. Go if you get a chance.
Following the hike we headed to nearby town Povoacao for some lunch and a spot of sunbathing at the seafront ‘piscina’ which is basically a public swimming pool. We spent a few hours relaxing here before heading back to Ponta Delgado for dinner at one of the best sushi restaurants we have ever been to: Fuji Sushi Experience. Go there, we highly recommend. It was absolutely the best sushi we have ever tasted.
The majestic Salto do Prego waterfall in Faial do Terra valley.
Day 6:
The rain was back in abundance. Therefore, we planned to visit Furnas. Abit of a tourist hotspot (literally), Furnas is home to more ‘calderas’ where they’ve turned them into a park so that you can wonder around and see the bubbling, boiling water for yourself. It really stinks!!! But it is nonetheless totally wondrous seeing the earth in all of its ferocious glory create enough heat (although the volcano is long dormant) to boil spring water and cook a local dish underground called ‘cozido’. We spent a couple of hours looking around the town and park, then headed to nearby Parque Terra Nostra at the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel. It is here that we spent the afternoon in their browny/red iron-rich thermal pool in the centre of their stunning landscaped botanical gardens. Absolutely worth going to. We had a great time bathing here, in the main pool + the two smaller jacuzzi style pools (one if quite hot!), taking in the surroundings and a delicious light lunch in their cafe.
This area also has its own lake Lagoa dos Furnas that you can hike around (we didn’t have time) and a few other things to see and do, which all in all, makes Furnas a great day’s worth of activities.
In the evening we headed to A Tasca, a local Portuguese style restaurant, back in Ponta Delgada. Beware, there is a long queue here! We waited approx 75 minutes for our table as it’s abit of a cult place in the town, by all accounts. It was hearty fare; we had local style soup to start followed by meat/fish mains and a delightful pineapple cake for dessert. Worth a try although this place wasn’t our favourite whilst in Sao Miguel.
The Calderas at Furnas.
Day 7:
Hometime. BUT. Not until we had an action-packed morning after we checked out of the hotel. We drove to Vila Franca do Campo to do some sea kayaking of course! We booked with OceanEye Azores and setting out from the marina, it is a 500m hop over the the Islet Vila Franca do Campo. However, make sure you workout beforehand… It requires a far bit of effort to kayak (we hired a double) on the somewhat rough seas! It certainly got the blood pumping and the heart racing… We decided not to take a dip 1) because the islet itself was unfortunately closed to visitors (the only 2 weeks of the year that it is, apparently) and 2) because we spotted some Portuguese man o’war floating on by when around the islet. Wouldn’t want to be stung by one of those beauties, no thanks! Sea kayaking was totally exhilarating, a lil bit scary at times and really cool all at the same time.
And then it was time for home. Our break on this enchanting and lush island was a blend of relaxation, exploration, and indulgence in local flavours that left us yearning for more. And we came away feeling super chilled - thanks to the mixture of mindful activities, beach relaxation and the amount of thermal baths visited with their unique mineral content contributing to our wellness! Beware though: there’s no getting away from that eggy smell commonly found in thermal spas all over the world, once you get used to it, it’s all good.
Mind the Portuguese man o’war…!
View from our kayak of Islet Vila Franca do Campo.
Other Top Tips for your trip to The Azores:
It is generally quiet on Saturday’s after 1pm and all day on Sunday’s. The shops are closed, so too are some bars and restaurants. Check when the public holidays are, everything closes then!
Book your meals out in advance, most places have online reservations & they get booked up fast!
If you want to sample A Tasca restaurant in Ponta Delgada, go early or go late - the queues are long.
Simply walking around Ponta Delgada is delightful (and safe), with beautiful black and white historic buildings & paving, but sometimes cruise ships come in making it a little busier than usual. Also, after it’s been raining it can be quite slippy.
Food and drinks on the island are relatively cheap, we ate at some really nice restaurants. You could do it cheaper or you could also do it more high-end.
There are alot of shops, supermarkets, local produce shops (including a farmers market) and pharmacies in Ponta Delgada. It has everything you need AND is handily located 10 mins from the airport.
Go to the airport in Ponta Delgada on time (leave at least 2 hours before your flight), it was a little chaotic when we flew home thanks to loads of departing US & Canadian flights.
You don’t need to learn loads of Portuguese to be able to communicate here, most folks speak English.
To see more pics, reels and highlights from our trip check us out on Instagram @stamps.inmypassport